Dave Townsend, from England, has built a radio control model of the Wild Goose. The model is about three feet in length. Dave does admit the paint job is not authentic, but he did say most of his models may have off paint jobs. Possibly it is his preference, or may have to do with visibility while he operates them. He di dsign the guest book and mentioned he was using the great photos many have sent in to make the model as accurate as possible.
Thanks Dave, for sharing your work, and also for the interest you have in the USS Currituck. We look forward to a short film you mentioned of the model in operation.
3 Nov 2007
Repairs made and in the Fish Pond for testing. |
9 Nov 2007Some weaponry added.
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Dave sent the following note with the above photos.
I have sent you some pics of the completed model, hope you like it, unfortunately, the pics of the mini prop I used didn't come out. If you look carefully you'll see yourself on the bridge with a very pink head!
In case you or a friend want to build one here is what you will need: Revell kit in 1/424th scale, I got mine from an antique plastic kit shop in Cornwall, see yellow compliment slip
Small electric motor, servo motor up to 6v Protech 300 4.8v powerpack battery
I used a Ripmax Xtra speed controller intended for an aeroplane very tiny but no reverse
If you want reverse, use an Msonik 4 Marine 3 speed controller or similar
Supertech Pico mini servo for rudder
Hitec Feather receiver FM, really small 2 channel and battery output
Ultra fine brass rod and tubing for prop shaft
Obtain tiny propeller, I got mine from a toy radio control boat measures 3/4" across, super glue prop on the shaft
Make very large rudder out of scrap plastic, super glue a small piece of plastic tube into stern pass your rudder stem through it
You'll need to make up a control lever in the rear, see my pic with the deck off, otherwise the rudder will not turn
I used dismantled cloths pegs to make motor mount and angled support for prop shaft. Araldite works well
Use thin electrical wire with the core taken out to fit over the drive shaft of the motor and the end of the prop shaft again see my pics
I used more thin brass rod to make the connection from the servo to the control lever to the rudder, model shop said I should have used steel rod which dosen't flex. but it works, so what the heck!
Make sure rear deck slides in and out of superstructure to allow access to on/off switch, charging wires for battery, and crystal in receiver, see my pic. Carefully shave away plastic at the back of the superstructure and the back wall of the rear deck to allow the deck to slide in and out smoothly
I covered the windows with thin plastic sheet and painted it white for more realism
Dave Townsend
townsend65 at btinternet dot com
FLASH..23 Oct 2007
Dave took the Currituck out for trials. Guess it could be called a mini shakedown cruise.
But some water came over the seaplane deck an seeped into the hull and made its way to the "radio room", where it got into the electronic receiver and shorted it out.
So its back to the model shipyards for some repair work. Further news here as it developes.
NEWS..3 Nov 2007
Repairs and modifications completed and the Currituck has passed the initial test in the fish pond. See photos above.